Staredit Network > Forums > Technology & Computers > Topic: I'm building a gaming computer
I'm building a gaming computer
Sep 9 2011, 4:20 pm
By: omginbd  

Sep 9 2011, 4:20 pm omginbd Post #1



Alright, so as the above title states, I'm building a gaming computer.

Things I expect it to be able to do:
  • Run SCII on ultra
  • Run any FPS (Black ops, MW3) on high settings if not ultra
  • Last longer than 6 months
  • Perhaps replace my xbox, if companies continue to charge $60 a game
  • Catch all my errors and eat them

Things I plan to put in it
Questions I have:
  • Is that power supply enough? I know that recommended is about 500w for a gaming computer so I'm definitely worried about that.
  • Is it worth it to use Newegg's suggested bundles. My current bundle is only saving me ~$38 and I'm worried that something in there won't cut it. More than the savings though, I'm using the bundle to be absolutely sure that the mobo and cpu and case all cooperate.
  • Will this satisfy what I want out if it? If not, what needs to be better/more?
  • TBA




None.

Sep 9 2011, 5:47 pm poison_us Post #2

Back* from the grave

Couldn't you just mess around with your xbox and either port its graphics in a computer you already have, or convert it into a computer itself?




Sep 9 2011, 5:53 pm TheKeyToKilling Post #3



The video card you're looking at is way over-priced for what you're getting. I'd suggest looking at the XFX series of video cards that are for sale on tigerdirect.com (tiger has more than newegg).
This card: http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=1149005&CatId=7005
costs way less than the one you posted and has the same max resolution, same core clock speed, and a faster memory clock speed.
You can get a XFX card with a 2 GB (so 1 GB better) 50 MHz slower core speed but like 1,000 faster memory clock speed for the price of the one you have selected.

I have the XFX Radeon HD 5870 which apparently you can't find anymore for some reason.

Good ram.
I have: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231278&nm_mc=AFC-C8Junction&cm_mmc=AFC-C8Junction-_-na-_-na-_-na&AID=10446076&PID=3946032&SID=skim2305X575088
Which for $7 more than yours has a 1 lower cas latency, thus better timing.

Can't say much about the cpu. Depends on what you're looking on spending. I have the I7 as opposed to ur I5. Not quite sure what the difference between the 2 is, all I know is the I7 is better.
My CPU: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819115213&cm_re=i7_lga_1156-_-19-115-213-_-&nm_mc=AFC-C8Junction&cm_mmc=AFC-C8Junction-_-na-_-na-_-na&AID=10446076&PID=3946032&SID=skim2305X575088

That case and power supply deal is terrible. The case has no air flow and the power supply will more than likely barely even power your graphics card, thus you'd need to buy a different power supply anyways.
My Case: http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=1384989&Sku=A107-3016&SRCCODE=LINKSHARE&cm_mmc_o=-ddCjC1bELltzywCjC-d2CjCdwwp&AffiliateID=TnL5HPStwNw-Q2T0X2ea4reoG8Y2FxnCYg&SRCCODE=LINKSHARE&cm_mmc_o=-ddCjC1bELltzywCjC-d2CjCdwwp&AffiliateID=TnL5HPStwNw-UNXRM5B4SnPw7aGysbfTCw Yours has room for 1 120 mm fan in the back, which is terrible. Mine comes with 2 80 mm fans (one back one top). The back one can be upgraded to a 120 mm and you can buy another 80 mm with the 120 when you buy it... and move the 80 from the back to the front of the case when you put in the 120 mm on the back... plus you put in the new 80 mm one you bought in the front also. Mine also has a air funnel filter thing in the side plus a hole vent thing.
My Power Supply: http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=3756958&CatId=2535&SRCCODE=LINKSHARE&cm_mmc_o=-ddCjC1bELltzywCjC-d2CjCdwwp&AffiliateID=TnL5HPStwNw-QKed9rYIJIe1vpEc9rsOVw&SRCCODE=LINKSHARE&cm_mmc_o=-ddCjC1bELltzywCjC-d2CjCdwwp&AffiliateID=TnL5HPStwNw-iq.KUFxVW6LU307_LhV65Q Cheap for 1,100 watts and not a highly known brand for power supplies, but I've never had an issue with power supplies. Corsair is one of the higher rated brands, but is very expensive. You're going to want probably at least 800 Watts if not more. Not sure... don't know what all your parts will take, but I think my video card alone takes like 550 watts.

Motherboard/MOBO is good. You aren't making the mistake I did. If i ever want to link 2 video cards together, I can't, because I only have 1 pci-e x16 slot... therefore I can't fit another of my video card in.

Not sure about the hard drive. I got a 1 TB samsung spinpoint and it seems to get way too hot. Not sure what your's would do. (mine gets hot while running sc2 only)
I would like to suggest getting a velociraptor hard drive, which is made by western digital. They are very very very expensive, but are the fastest non solid state drive that you can buy. They are very high quality. Would definately suggest one for your operating system and probably starcraft 2 to run off of. Use the other one for other files. Totally up to you though :).

As for your concerns. Here's what you need if you use that motherboard.

Ram: has to be DDR3
Video Card: must fit into slot available (good idea to have 2 so you can link 2 cards together if you ever get another one)
CPU: has to be socket LGA 1155

For your power supply... basically find out what the video card takes and add like 300 watts to that. That to me would be a rough estimate of the power you'd need. I'm pretty sure 800 watts would work for you, but I'd go with at least 1,000 just to be safe. Your computer doesn't use all the watts... it only pulls what is required for the components to run... therefore having more watts then is needed is always a good idea... especially if you ever decide to add more to your computer or upgrade it in the future. PLAN AHEAD!

Oh and 1 last thing. Look into getting a non-stock cpu fan. I have the cooler master V8. I had to remove the funnel on the side of my case in order to fit it in, but I still have the silver apevia circle thing on the side with a vent screen with it.

Post has been edited 10 time(s), last time on Sep 9 2011, 6:37 pm by TheKeyToKilling.



None.

Sep 9 2011, 7:02 pm xAngelSpiritx Post #4

eternal lurker

Quote from TheKeyToKilling
Cheap for 1,100 watts and not a highly known brand for power supplies, but I've never had an issue with power supplies. Corsair is one of the higher rated brands, but is very expensive. You're going to want probably at least 800 Watts if not more. Not sure... don't know what all your parts will take, but I think my video card alone takes like 550 watts.
@TheKeyToKilling:
I now know that you know jack shit about what you are talking about. I'll quote rockz on this:
Quote from rockz
First off: some Q&A on power supplies.
- Why do I need a good power supply?
To give power to your computer in a way that decreases the likelihood that you will damage the components
- What is the significance of having a "600W" vs "500W" power supply?
This is the theoretical maximum power that the manufacturer has labeled. If you have a good power supply, it is likely that the real maximum power is much greater, they just call it a lower maximum in order to keep it at an 80+ rating.
- Shouldn't a 600W PSU be better than a 500W PSU?
No. PSUs are most efficient at 50% capacity. Your computer will be idling most of the time. Power requirements are usually greatly over exaggerated. You could run 2 GTX 470s on a 400W PSU if you underclocked them a little and really pushed the PSU. The only reason to get a PSU above 500-550 W is for dual graphics. Power requirements are not going to increase that much in future generations due to PCI-e power limits, and manufacturers realize that efficiency is a good thing.

Quote from TheKeyToKilling
My Case: http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=1384989&Sku=A107-3016&SRCCODE=LINKSHARE&cm_mmc_o=-ddCjC1bELltzywCjC-d2CjCdwwp&AffiliateID=TnL5HPStwNw-Q2T0X2ea4reoG8Y2FxnCYg&SRCCODE=LINKSHARE&cm_mmc_o=-ddCjC1bELltzywCjC-d2CjCdwwp&AffiliateID=TnL5HPStwNw-UNXRM5B4SnPw7aGysbfTCw Yours has room for 1 120 mm fan in the back, which is terrible. Mine comes with 2 80 mm fans (one back one top). The back one can be upgraded to a 120 mm and you can buy another 80 mm with the 120 when you buy it... and move the 80 from the back to the front of the case when you put in the 120 mm on the back... plus you put in the new 80 mm one you bought in the front also. Mine also has a air funnel filter thing in the side plus a hole vent thing.
I haven't taken too close of a look at that case, but from what I've seen it's what Ex would call
Quote from Excalibur
an overpriced hunk of LED toting garbage.

Quote from TheKeyToKilling
The video card you're looking at is way over-priced for what you're getting. I'd suggest looking at the XFX series of video cards that are for sale on tigerdirect.com (tiger has more than newegg).
This card: http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=1149005&CatId=7005
costs way less than the one you posted and has the same max resolution, same core clock speed, and a faster memory clock speed.
You can get a XFX card with a 2 GB (so 1 GB better) 50 MHz slower core speed but like 1,000 faster memory clock speed for the price of the one you have selected.
A 6770 is not on par with a GTX 560 Ti. His 560 costs more because it is better.
I also noticed that you mentioned you use an HD 5870 as your GPU, but have an i7 CPU. This is more reason why I know that you haven't a clue what you're doing.

@omginbd:
A few things I'll note about your build:
CPU -
If you're going for Intel's sandy bridge line, go for the K-series if you can. They overclock much, much better, though I noticed you didn't include an aftermarket HSF in your build so that might not be an issue for you.
This is the K-series version of your CPU.
Another issue you may have is a GPU bottleneck. You mentioned you'll be playing FPS games; those are far more GPU-reliant than CPU, so I'd spend a bit more on your GPU. With that i5-2500K I linked you to, you should be able to use a GTX 570, or, if you want to go with ATI, an HD 6970. Those will cost you a significant amount more though, so if you want to stick with your 560, I would recommend dropping your i5 for an i3, or even an AMD Phenom II (955 Black).

Case -
The case you have chosen is....bleh. I mean, it's not that bad, but for the computer you're building you'll want some better stuff.
I hear that this case is one of the best on the market for its price. It's large enough that it should easily be able to house all your parts with some extra pissing room space.

PSU -
You didn't include a PSU in your build so I'll assume you're using the one that came with the case you've chosen.
Don't.
Seriously, I'd be willing to bet money that the PSU that comes with the case is generic, and trust me, you do not want to ever ever EVER use a generic PSU. You'll fry your whole system.
SeaSonic, Antec, and Corsair are the most respected brands in the PSU market, and for good reason. They consistently provide not only high quality products, but also excellent customer support. IIRC Antec is owned by SeaSonic. Antec buys its PSUs from SeaSonic. (thanks rockz)
Although I'd wait for Ex to give you his run-down for a PSU, I would personally go for this one.

RAM -
Meh. G.Skill is pretty good when it comes to quality control. You're good to go here, though I question whether you will need 8GB.

HDD -
For the same price as the HDD you listed, you can get this HDD which I hear is one of the best on the market. Alternatively, if you can find a good deal on a WD Caviar Black, go with that instead.

MOBO -
Eh...I'm not good with recommending motherboards, so I'd wait for Ex or rockz on this one. From what I can tell, the mobo you picked looks fine. It has all the features you'll need at an OK price.

The total, with my recommendations, comes to a bit higher than the amount you listed. Take my recommendations with a grain of salt; like I said, I'd wait for Ex or rockz to give you a run-down instead.

Post has been edited 5 time(s), last time on Sep 10 2011, 11:26 pm by xAngelSpiritx.



None.

Sep 9 2011, 8:45 pm rockz Post #5

ᴄʜᴇᴇsᴇ ɪᴛ!

Quote from omginbd

Questions I have:
  • Is that power supply enough? I know that recommended is about 500w for a gaming computer so I'm definitely worried about that. no
  • Is it worth it to use Newegg's suggested bundles. My current bundle is only saving me ~$38 and I'm worried that something in there won't cut it. More than the savings though, I'm using the bundle to be absolutely sure that the mobo and cpu and case all cooperate. Average combo saving should be $5-$10 per item. If it's any lower than that it's not worth it.
  • Will this satisfy what I want out if it? If not, what needs to be better/more? Yes, except for the psu
  • TBA

afaik apevia is shit, unless you can find me a good review.
Case choices are shitty right now. only the k58w is mildly interesting at $70. Haf 912 is $65, the 692 is $80, k7b and 692 w/fans is $90
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814162074
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139020
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813138319
http://www.newegg.com/Product/ComboDealDetails.aspx?ItemList=Combo.723891
http://www.superbiiz.com/detail.php?name=HD-HD103SJ
Total is $663+53+no case, and $55 MIR. Difference is a good PSU, negligibly worse ram, negligibly worse video card, better processor, and unknown motherboard difference (asus is better than biostar, but the z68's gimmicks, along with steadily increasing quality from biostar make it better in my opinion).

Also, there are only 2 CPUs I recommend right now really: the i3 2100 and the i5 2500K. 2500K is at such a price/performance ratio, it doesn't make sense to get anything else, even if you end up with a GPU bottleneck. The most important part of the computer is the CPU, and if the 2500K were appropriately priced at $300, I'd recommend a cheaper $150 cpu. But for now it's worth the extra $50. Not everything you will run uses just CPU+GPU. The i3 2100 is the same price and performace as whatever AMD can offer, so it's better to get that if you're on a budget. You also can upgrade to a better processor later if need be. The even lower pentiums are also okay, but generally if you can afford intel, you can afford an i3. There are a few other special cases, like if you have a hard budget, or are upgrading, or building an HTPC.

Quote from xAngelSpiritx
You didn't include a PSU in your build so I'll assume you're using the one that came with the case you've chosen.
Don't.
Seriously, I'd be willing to bet money that the PSU that comes with the case is generic, and trust me, you do not want to ever ever EVER use a generic PSU. You'll fry your whole system.
SeaSonic, Antec, and Corsair are the most respected brands in the PSU market, and for good reason. They consistently provide not only high quality products, but also excellent customer support. IIRC Antec is owned by SeaSonic.
Cooler Master isn't exactly generic, but their only good PSUs are the Silent Pros. The rest are junk.
Seasonic actually manufactures power supplies. They build the design, assemble, etc... Then, they sell it to OEMs like Antec and Corsair. Antec is antec, and isn't owned by seasonic.

Antec buys from seasonic (the neo ecos) and delta (earthwatts with "D" at the end), among others. Both use different capacitors and slightly different designs, but are usually pretty good. Corsair is mostly CWT and a few Seasonic. CWT doesn't actually sell to the public I don't think.

There are very few real manufacturers of power supplies, and only a select few who have earned the reputation to be called "good", and most of them do not actually sell their own brand. Those that do are usually among the best.

Post has been edited 3 time(s), last time on Sep 9 2011, 9:00 pm by rockz.



"Parliamentary inquiry, Mr. Chairman - do we have to call the Gentleman a gentleman if he's not one?"

Sep 9 2011, 9:49 pm Excalibur Post #6

The sword and the faith

First lets establish something: You don't know what you're doing. You bundled your PSU with a case. You know nothing, you need to shut up and listen. Seriously.

Quote
Things I plan to put in it

Video Card - $239 - EVGA GeForce GTX 560 TI - http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814130623
- The TI is okay, but I would go with the HD 6950. Higher performance, lower power draw, lower heat. This choice leads me to believe you are either an NV fanboy or have an IQ lower than your shoe size.
- The card you should be getting: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814150550

Quote
Extra Memory - $32 - G.SKILL Ripjaw Series (2x2gb) - http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231277
- Let me ignore this because it is nixed by my next point:

Quote
The next items are bundled so I can't give individual prices
Processor - Intel Core i5 Sandy Bridge @ 3.3Ghz - http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819115073
Case - Cooler Master Elite w/420 watt Power Supply - http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811119210
Mobo - ASUS P8H67-M - http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131711
Memory - G.SKILL Ripjaws series (2x2gb) - http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231277
HDD - Seagate Barracuda 1TB 7200 rpm - http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822148697

- This bundle is complete and utter shit. Shit case, shit PSU, shit HDD, just shit shit and more shit. Ugh. Going with crappy components to save money is inexcusable.

Look, I don't know your price range, but here is what you should be getting:

DVD: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16827136238
HDD: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822152185
GPU: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814150550
PSU: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817371044
RAM: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231275
Mobo: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131781
CPU: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819115076
Case: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811146061

Notes: You do not need 8GB of RAM, your GPU choice was a space heater, your HDD choice was slow and unreliable, your case and PSU choice were laughable. You cut corners to save money, I don't know what your budget is, but there is no excuse on building a shitting PC. You either have enough to build the machine you need, or you don't.

Current price: $856.60 based on tax and shipping to me in NJ.

You should consider adding two of these: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811999346 to keep things cool.

Price after fans: $877.98 based on tax and shipping to me in NJ.

If you can't afford this, let me know, and we'll cut the build back. But we'll do it the right way: Quality components, but lesser specs.

@TheKeyToKilling
If you ever recommend another crappy component in my tech section (your PSU, your case), I will find you and nothing will save you from me.




SEN Global Moderator and Resident Zealot
-------------------------
The sword and the faith.

:ex:
Sector 12
My stream, live PC building and tech discussion.

Sep 9 2011, 10:00 pm Vrael Post #7



Quote from Excalibur
@TheKeyToKilling
If you ever recommend another crappy component in my tech section (your PSU, your case), I will find you and nothing will save you from me.
This is why we read the tech section here on SEN :D



None.

Sep 9 2011, 11:49 pm xAngelSpiritx Post #8

eternal lurker

Quote from rockz
Cooler Master isn't exactly generic, but their only good PSUs are the Silent Pros. The rest are junk.
Seasonic actually manufactures power supplies. They build the design, assemble, etc... Then, they sell it to OEMs like Antec and Corsair. Antec is antec, and isn't owned by seasonic.

Antec buys from seasonic (the neo ecos) and delta (earthwatts with "D" at the end), among others. Both use different capacitors and slightly different designs, but are usually pretty good. Corsair is mostly CWT and a few Seasonic. CWT doesn't actually sell to the public I don't think.

There are very few real manufacturers of power supplies, and only a select few who have earned the reputation to be called "good", and most of them do not actually sell their own brand. Those that do are usually among the best.
My apologies, I'm still learning what I can about computers. I'll certainly remember that for future reference.

@Ex:
I'd like to ask why you recommended the i5-2300 instead of the 2500K? From what I've read, the 2500K offers vastly superior OC ability. Is it because of the higher price, or that omginbd hasn't included an aftermarket HSF in his build and as such probably won't want to OC? Or is it something else?



None.

Sep 10 2011, 8:26 am TheKeyToKilling Post #9



LOL I have never known a PSU to go bad, which is why I went with the one I did. I didn't tell him to get the one I have. I told him corsair is one of the top of the line brands for power supplies and that he should look into getting one of those if price isn't an issue. I also told him he needed more wattage than he had in order to run such a graphics card with the rest of the components, plus if he wants to ever crossfire the 2 GPU's together, then he could have enough extra wattage to do it.

So quit dissin on my PSU input.

As for my case, I know my case isn't perfect and I never said it was. I just said that it has much better air flow then what he has picked out (not to mention probably is a bigger case... didn't look at the size of his). The LED lights on my case are just a bonus. I know there are cases much better, but this case has quite adequate air flow and is very inexpensive. The fan controller on it is complete shit though, which is why I have a nzxt fan controller taking up 2 of my external bays.

So quit dissin on me for the case.

As for my cpu mr. angel... I don't overclock anything on my computer nor do I need to. I probably could, but I don't want to accidentally fry something from doing it and don't want to even mess with it... the computer runs perfectly fine without overclocking... nor do I see why there would be an issue between my cpu and gpu.

I'm still pretty new to this and never said i'm an expert in the field, but I've built my own computer and it runs amazing and I have no issues with it what-so-ever. I'm currently going to school for computer building, repairing, and networking... so in due time I will learn more about it, but I'm just giving my input on what I know... and if there's anything wrong with that, then crucify me.



None.

Sep 10 2011, 10:20 am Jack Post #10

>be faceless void >mfw I have no face

That's not a very humble learning attitude. Rockz, excal, etc. told you why your suggestions were wrong and you would do well to listen to them; you've already admitted you're a beginner and if you want to stop being a beginner you need to learn from others instead of getting all offended and selfrighteous when told that you're wrong.



Red classic.

"In short, their absurdities are so extreme that it is painful even to quote them."

Sep 10 2011, 2:26 pm xAngelSpiritx Post #11

eternal lurker

Quote from TheKeyToKilling
nor do I see why there would be an issue between my cpu and gpu.
You have a bottleneck. Which, in a nutshell, means that your GPU is far inferior to your CPU. In any demanding application, this will result in your GPU working like crazy, while your CPU just sits there and doesn't utilize anything close to its full potential.



None.

Sep 10 2011, 2:26 pm Excalibur Post #12

The sword and the faith

@Angel:
He isn't at a level where he is competent to OC, and hasn't included an aftermarket CPU heatsink, so your thoughs are correct.

Also, the 0.2GHz difference in speed between CPUs means little to nothing. For example, my i7 920 @ 2.6GHz is OC'd to 4GHz because it actually shows improvement. At 2.7 or 2.8, it'd just be like meh, maybe 1 more FPS or something. This is why only OCing when you have the proper parts for it is a good idea. Why spend all that money for such a small increase it does nothing for you?

For reference, my first build was a budget gaming rigg using an E2140, stock 1.6GHz. I ran it at 3.2. 100% OC on a 60$ CPU? Hell yes. :P

@Key
Your case and PSU are the likes of Rosewill. They will not be spoken of in any positive context, or heads will roll.

Post has been edited 1 time(s), last time on Sep 10 2011, 2:32 pm by Excalibur.




SEN Global Moderator and Resident Zealot
-------------------------
The sword and the faith.

:ex:
Sector 12
My stream, live PC building and tech discussion.

Sep 10 2011, 4:27 pm rockz Post #13

ᴄʜᴇᴇsᴇ ɪᴛ!

Rosewill isn't all bad. Their cases may be flimsy, but are good deals, and you take a bit of a chance on quality control.

Their high end PSUs and especially the GREEN series aren't bad either.



"Parliamentary inquiry, Mr. Chairman - do we have to call the Gentleman a gentleman if he's not one?"

Sep 10 2011, 7:00 pm TheKeyToKilling Post #14



Just for notes... this is what I have.
http://www.tech-forums.net/pc/f76/building-new-computer-need-input-239180/index3.html#post1885042
and the update for cpu fan addition
http://www.tech-forums.net/pc/f76/building-new-computer-need-input-239180/index4.html#post1911969
and
my case fans are 3 pin now, not the 4 pin apevia ones.



None.

Sep 10 2011, 11:35 pm xAngelSpiritx Post #15

eternal lurker

I stopped reading after that.

Even if your PSU was a reputable brand, it would still be a bad choice. You do not have two (hell, you'd need 3) OC'd ultra-high tier GPUs in CF/SLI, so you do not need 1100W.
For your build, you don't need 900W.
You probably don't even need 700W.
To cut it short, it's crap, but even if it wasn't, it'd be overkill.

Quote from TheKeyToKilling
... and if there's anything wrong with that, then crucify me.
While it probably looks to you as though we're all just bashing you, in truth it's because you gave pretty bad advice. At the very least, if you mention next time that you're new and that you aren't entirely sure what you're doing, then you'll be likely to get a more helpful response, instead of, well...the ones you got in this thread.

Post has been edited 1 time(s), last time on Sep 11 2011, 1:52 pm by xAngelSpiritx.



None.

Sep 11 2011, 2:49 am rockz Post #16

ᴄʜᴇᴇsᴇ ɪᴛ!


For the record, you overpayed by $200.



"Parliamentary inquiry, Mr. Chairman - do we have to call the Gentleman a gentleman if he's not one?"

Sep 11 2011, 4:11 am TheKeyToKilling Post #17



Quote from rockz

For the record, you overpayed by $200.

No I didn't. I bought the stuff months ago... lot of it has gone down in price since then.



None.

Sep 11 2011, 5:35 am rockz Post #18

ᴄʜᴇᴇsᴇ ɪᴛ!

I made that before you made your thread.



"Parliamentary inquiry, Mr. Chairman - do we have to call the Gentleman a gentleman if he's not one?"

Sep 12 2011, 2:38 am omginbd Post #19



Quote from poison_us
Couldn't you just mess around with your xbox and either port its graphics in a computer you already have, or convert it into a computer itself?

.... anyway.

Quote from Excalibur
First lets establish something: You don't know what you're doing. You bundled your PSU with a case. You know nothing, you need to shut up and listen. Seriously. Absolutely correct, reason I asked. Looking back on that it sounds sassy, and that was not the intention.

- The TI is okay, but I would go with the HD 6950. Higher performance, lower power draw, lower heat. This choice leads me to believe you are either an NV fanboy or have an IQ lower than your shoe size. Neither, but looking back I realized that I only looked at NV cards. Foolish mistake I see.

- The card you should be getting: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814150550

- This bundle is complete and utter shit. Shit case, shit PSU, shit HDD, just shit shit and more shit. Ugh. Going with crappy components to save money is inexcusable.
Good to know, I was worried about that.
Look, I don't know your price range, but here is what you should be getting:

DVD: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16827136238
HDD: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822152185
GPU: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814150550
PSU: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817371044
RAM: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231275
Mobo: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131781
CPU: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819115076
Case: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811146061

Notes: You do not need 8GB of RAM, your GPU choice was a space heater, your HDD choice was slow and unreliable, your case and PSU choice were laughable. You cut corners to save money, I don't know what your budget is, but there is no excuse on building a shitting PC. You either have enough to build the machine you need, or you don't.

Current price: $856.60 based on tax and shipping to me in NJ.

You should consider adding two of these: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811999346 to keep things cool.

Price after fans: $877.98 based on tax and shipping to me in NJ.

If you can't afford this, let me know, and we'll cut the build back. But we'll do it the right way: Quality components, but lesser specs.

@Ex: Thanks so much for the in depth reply. Awesome recommendations, however, I'd like to keep the build a little lower than that, perhaps around $700 if possible? What specs would we have to cut down in order to lower the price so drastically? Also, I've got an old (2006) acer aspire tower (+fans) that I think I could use instead of having to buy another case. Is this worth it? Or should I spring for a newer case?

Also, thanks to rockz and angel for their assessments as well. Even Key for trying. But also, Ex is God of computer builds so it's best just to yield to what he says and don't argue cause you'll lose anyway.



None.

Sep 12 2011, 3:29 pm rockz Post #20

ᴄʜᴇᴇsᴇ ɪᴛ!

At the very least you should get my HDD as it's $5-$10 cheaper. Google superbiiz coupons for the global coupon code. Right now it's "TACKLE" for $5 off. I also didn't include a DVD, but you can combo the HDD and a samsung DVD player as well for $70 (newegg was $80).

Right now I'm turned off ATi due to the completely shitty drivers. It's a bitch to get things working the way I want:
hotkeys for screen rotation are not enabled by default, and when you rotate the screen when it's not on the desktop, you can't move your mouse over pixels greater than the old vertical resolution. There is no easy way to set flip queue size with the newer models because ATi Tray tools isn't being updated that quickly anymore. I have no idea if the registry workaround I found actually works: I can't tell the difference, and I REALLY should be able to. I also have problems with windowed games running in "powersave mode" or some stupid crap like that which makes them report that they're at full speed, but clearly running at a reduced rate until you move the window.

When you click a link in CCC, it opens up internet explorer. CCC is slow to load up, cumbersome, and doesn't really have much in the ways of customization. No easy way to set game overclocking profiles either.

The difference between a GTX 560 Ti and 6950 2 GB is $50 and a small difference in performance, to the point where I would consider it negligible:
TPU gives it 2% to the 560 in one review and 6% to the 6950 in another. Power draw is slightly higher on the 560 though. That all changes if you unlock the card into a 6970.

I think during the r700 days to early fermi, AMD had an enormous lead on nVidia, but nVidia's GTX 480 is still more powerful than most other cards, and was the fastest when it came out. However the heating problems and power draw associated with it scarred nVidia badly--so much so that people shy away from nvidia, citing "heat problems". Well the GF104 and GF114 found in the *60 fermis only have a slightly higher power draw and thus heat problem than AMD's competition.

The GTX 580 is still the fastest GPU on the market right now, and when it came out, it beat its predecessor, the GTX 480 (the 480 is essentially a gimped 580 due to problems they had with design/production, but they needed a GPU out to remain competitive).

What gets recommended is a lot up to the person. I recommend nVidia because of my bad experience with AMD. Ex recommends you not get MSI because of his bad experiences with it (3 bad products). That's not to say MSI or AMD are bad, they were just bad for us. I think just about everything is appropriately priced right now. in terms of graphics cards, so long as you include the rebate.

IMO if you're getting an $7-800 computer, you should work your butt off to try and get a 2500k. Is it worth it? It's certainly worth $30 for a 10% performance increase and the ability to overclock.



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