[size=18][Align=center][U][color=yellow]For The Technologically Impaired[/color][/U], [/size] [size=11][I]A normal person's recource to the geeky world of computers.[/I][/align][/size] [size=11][I]I made this specifically because people always have questions about parts and things when it comes to computers. Granted I’m not the best informed on the subject here, but I’m sure Deathawk and Dumbducky will post something in here to contribute and ill be a grateful little SENner. :P[/I][/size] Some terms of the trade: Before we get started its important you understand some terms about computers and their parts, specifically some terms attached to things you might be buying. [u]OEM [/u]- Original Equipment Manufacturer. This means the item usually comes in bubble wrap with no extra parts/manuals/screws wires. This makes the item cheaper for you to buy. [u]Open Box[/u] - Open Box is similar to OEM in the way that the item probably only comes with the item itself, however sometimes you might get a couple of wires or screws. This also brings the price of the item down. This is useful if your replacing a motherboard or GFX card and do not need any extra driver disks/wires. Be careful though, make sure if your buying OB/OEM you have everything you need. [u]Retail[/u] - This means the item comes in the same box with the same extras as if you had bought it at a store. Usually higher priced than OB/OEM. [u]Re certified[/u] (Newegg) - From what I understand, this means an item was deactivated due to problems, usually associated with its rating dropping too low for newegg standards, and then the company has supposedly fixed the problem. Beware of re certified items and buy at your own risk. [u]PSU[/u] - Power Supply Unit. What powers the computer. [u]GFX Card[/u] - Graphics card. Usually ATI or Nvidia. (This guide supports only Nvidia/Intel builds. Sorry.) [u]Mobo[/u] - Shortened slang for Motherboard. [u]RAM[/u] - Random Access Memory. All computers use some sort of RAM. [u]DDR/DDR2/DDR3 ect.[/u] - No this is not Dance Dance Revolution. Heres a word from wikipedia on DDRSDRAM: [quote=wikipedia]DDR SDRAM (double data rate synchronous dynamic random access memory) is a class of memory integrated circuit used in computers. It achieves nearly twice the bandwidth of the preceding [single data rate] SDRAM by double pumping (transferring data on the rising and falling edges of the clock signal) without increasing the clock frequency.[/quote] [size=14][u]Parts parts parts![/u][/size] The most important thing that dictates your computers performance is the hardware it is made up of. A computer must consists of: [collapse=Parts]A motherboard (Assuming it has onboard sound/video) A processor (With heatsink/fan) A power supply RAM (Random Access Memory) A hard drive A disk drive Other optional parts include: A sound card A video card A burner ect.[/collapse] [collapse=Notes][size=10][i]A note to people upgrading: If you are upgrading your computer instead of buying a new one, you have to make sure everything will be compatable. A good way to make sure of this is to use [url=ttp://www.cpuid.com/cpuz.php]CPU-Z[/url]. CPU-Z will inform you of your motherboard's chipset, its processor socket, and what type of RAM it uses. This is useful if you are replacing any of those parts. CPU-Z also informs you of your processors speed, FSB, and cache size, making the usefulness of an upgrade easier to judge. Its your money and you should make sure its being spent on a good price:performance ratio.[/i][/size] [size=10][i]A note to overclockers: Quite honestly, overclocking is a lot easier than i expected it to be. However this all depends on your mobo's BIOS. Overclocking is useful on certain processors (E2xxx series) and not on others. Overclocking also increases heat so good ventilation and cooling is a must. I recommend having someone who has overclocked before on another computer or phone with you so that you can talk to them through the process. If you're reading this guide and planning to OC, thats not exactly good, but it is do-able. If you think you have the power, cooling, and processor head room to do it, give it a try. Make sure to take it slow, be careful, dont push too hard, and always check your temps. I wish you luck and much speed. This isnt an overclocking guide so i wont go in depth, there are plenty of OC'ing guides around on the net. Try Anandtech forums for tutorials covering OCing and such.[/i][/size][/collapse] --[U]What does each part do and how does it affect my computer?[/U] Good question. A lot of people look solely at RAM, Processor, and Video card because those are very performance focused parts, but we're going to start with the basis of the entire machine: [color=#81A7EF][size=14][b]The motherboard.[/b][/size][/color] [color=#81A7EF]Motherboards[/color] (Also known as a mainboard, baseboard, or systemboard) are the base of your entire system, and if your motherboard sucks, chances are no matter what you throw on it, you’re going to have problems. Here is a diagram of how a modern motherboard works: [img]http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/9/98/Motherboard_diagram.png[/img] (Thanks Wikipedia.) Now, here are some things to think about when choosing a motherboard: [I]Does the CPU socket on the board match my processor? [/I] An LGA775 motherboard isnt going to help you if your processor doesnt use that socket. [I]What is my motherboards form factor and what does it mean?[/I] A form factor has to do with the size of your motherboard. MicroATX motherboards are for small, non-overclocked machines. Most medium/full cases only support ATX or Server size motherboards, so make sure whatever case you choose, your motherboard can be put into it. [I]Do i want onboard video/sound or do i want to get a video card/sound card?[/I] Depending on what you're doing with a computer, you may want to go with the cheaper method of getting onboard video and sound. Or, if you need high performance in areas like video-games or playback, maybe onboard sound and video just isnt for you. Dont pay for what you dont need. (Note: Most current motherboards come with onboard sound anyway.) [I]Does this motherboard have a high enough FSB (Front Side Bus) and RAM standard for my needs?[/I] The front side bus is just as important as the CPU frequency in most cases, because they are directly related. Over clocking your FSB will increase your processor's frequency, and I dont reccomend over clocking unless you REALLY know what you're doing. (AKA you dont need to be reading this tutorial. :P ) Make sure that the memory standard on the motherboard matches the RAM you are going to buy and that the mobo and processor both support the same FSB. [I]How much does a motherboard typically cost?[/I] Typically, a motherboard will run you anywehere from 50-350$. Id say on a budget gaming build (which is what this tutorial has in mind), go with one that is 60-90$. Reccomended Motherboards*: [url=http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128059]Gigabyte P35 DS3L[/url] [url=http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813127031]Abit P35-E[/url] (Waiting for Hawk/Ducky to add more in here.) [SIZE=8][I]*Note, these are motherboards that from their specifications and price appear to me to be pretty good. I make no promise as to the quality of these products nor can you complain to me or would it be my fault if they didnt work how you intended, or if you made it blow into a million pieces. Kthnx.[/I][/SIZE] Now that thats over with, lets move on to the processor. The processor is what makes the computer tick. Its what does all the real work when it comes to just about anything, and as such, a very very important piece of your build. Choosing a processor is a careful process because you want something that does the job for the right price. Keep these things in mind when choosing a processor: [I]Do i need multiple cores?[/I] In todays world, processors have anywhere from 1-4 cores. (That number may grow soon.) Depending on how much multi tasking you do, and if your using newer applications that take advantage of multiple cores, you may want to go with a dual or quad core processor. [I]Is the processor fast enough for my needs?[/I] Obviously, there's a big difference between playing SC and playing WoW, and from WoW to Crysis. If your not going to be doing any high-end gaming, you may want to stick with a low end Allendale or Conroe core processor. However if Crysis is your goal, you may want to go with a high end Conroe, or perhaps a Kentsfield or Yorkfield core. Cores vary not only in speed but in FSB and cache size which is important for very high end gaming. [u]Recommended Processors*:[/u] E2140 or E2180 (Over clockers or [b]old[/b] gaming only. Can be overclocked 70-100% or more with an aftermarket cooler.) E4500 (Significantly better than the E2140, no overclock required.) E6750 (Best for price in the upper 6xxxx models if your not an over clocker.) Q6600 (Cheapest quad core on the market. Overclocks well if given a good aftermarket cooler.) QX9650 (Only recommended if you have a spare 1k around and nothing to do with it. :P ) [SIZE=8][I]*Note, these are CPUs that from their specifications and price appear to me to be pretty good. I make no promise as to the quality of these products nor can you complain to me or would it be my fault if they didnt work how you intended, or if you made it blow into a million pieces. Kthnx.[/I][/SIZE] We have our processor and we have our motherboard. Lets move on to our PSU, or power supply unit. The PSU is what the computers power cord plugs into and in turn plugs into everything else to make it run with delicious electricity. (Im speaking from the hardware's point of view. I do not encourage the consumption of electricity nor am I responsible for what happens if you do.) A word from Wikipedia on PSUs: [quote=Wikipedia]A power supply unit (PSU) is the component that supplies power to a computer. More specifically, a power supply is typically designed to convert 100-120 V (North America and Japan) or 220-240 V (Europe, Africa, Asia and Australia) AC power from the mains to usable low-voltage DC power for the internal components of the computer. Some power supplies have a switch to change between 230 V and 115 V. Other models have automatic sensors that switch input voltage automatically, or are able to accept any voltage between those limits. The most common computer power supplies are built to conform with the ATX form factor. The most recent specification of the ATX standard PSU as of mid-2008 is version 2.31. This enables different power supplies to be interchangeable with different components inside the computer. ATX power supplies also are designed to turn on and off using a signal from the motherboard (PS-ON wire, which can be shorted to ground to turn on the PSU outside the computer), and provide support for modern functions such as the standby mode available in many computers.[/quote] Lets see what we should consider when choosing our PSU: [I]How much power do I need?[/I] First of all, you are not a badass because you spent a chunk of change on a 1kw PSU for your P4 and 6600GT. Infact, your going to be paying a lot of money on your electrical bill that is simply because you went overboard. If you have multiple cores in your processor, or if your processor is 65nm as apposed to 45nm, and if you are overclocking, you will need some headroom with your PSU's max output rating. If you are using ATICrossfire or Nvidia's SLI, you will also need quite a bit of power. For most PCs, 300w-500w is a good range, and for SLI/CF or over clocked setups, 500w-900w should be effective. Very few systems ever need 1kw. Seriously. [I]Is the PSU modular?[/I] Modular power supplies allow the removal of cables you are not using. If your case has a window and you plan on showing the inside off, this is a good thing. Removal of extra cables also leads to less of a chance of getting wires caught in fans. However, this feature usually makes the PSU more expensive, so if you are on a budget, it isnt necessary. [I]What brand is this PSU?[/I] Like most computer components, this is a factor. Some companies manufacture completely shitty PSUs and this can short out your entire system costing you a lot of money. SeaSonic, Corsair, and Antec are some good brands to consider. If the name seems generic and silly like SuperMan Power Supplies, its probably a cheaply made piece of crap. [i]Recommended PSUs:[/i] [url=http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817371005]Antec earthwatts EA380 380W ATX12V v2.0[/url] [url=http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817139004]CORSAIR CMPSU-550VX 550W ATX12V V2.2[/url] [url=http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817151040]SeaSonic SS-500ES 500W ATX12V 2.2 / EPS12V 2.91[/url] [SIZE=18]STILL WORKING KTHNX[/SIZE]

For The Technologically Impaired,
A normal person's recource to the geeky world of computers.

I made this specifically because people always have questions about parts and things when it comes to computers. Granted I’m not the best informed on the subject here, but I’m sure Deathawk and Dumbducky will post something in here to contribute and ill be a grateful little SENner.

Some terms of the trade:
Before we get started its important you understand some terms about computers and their parts, specifically some terms attached to things you might be buying.
OEM - Original Equipment Manufacturer. This means the item usually comes in bubble wrap with no extra parts/manuals/screws wires. This makes the item cheaper for you to buy.
Open Box - Open Box is similar to OEM in the way that the item probably only comes with the item itself, however sometimes you might get a couple of wires or screws. This also brings the price of the item down. This is useful if your replacing a motherboard or GFX card and do not need any extra driver disks/wires. Be careful though, make sure if your buying OB/OEM you have everything you need.
Retail - This means the item comes in the same box with the same extras as if you had bought it at a store. Usually higher priced than OB/OEM.
Re certified (Newegg) - From what I understand, this means an item was deactivated due to problems, usually associated with its rating dropping too low for newegg standards, and then the company has supposedly fixed the problem. Beware of re certified items and buy at your own risk.
PSU - Power Supply Unit. What powers the computer.
GFX Card - Graphics card. Usually ATI or Nvidia. (This guide supports only Nvidia/Intel builds. Sorry.)
Mobo - Shortened slang for Motherboard.
RAM - Random Access Memory. All computers use some sort of RAM.
DDR/DDR2/DDR3 ect. - No this is not Dance Dance Revolution. Heres a word from wikipedia on DDRSDRAM:

Quote from wikipedia

DDR SDRAM (double data rate synchronous dynamic random access memory) is a class of memory integrated circuit used in computers. It achieves nearly twice the bandwidth of the preceding [single data rate] SDRAM by double pumping (transferring data on the rising and falling edges of the clock signal) without increasing the clock frequency.

Parts parts parts!
The most important thing that dictates your computers performance is the hardware it is made up of. A computer must consists of:




--What does each part do and how does it affect my computer?
Good question. A lot of people look solely at RAM, Processor, and Video card because those are very performance focused parts, but we're going to start with the basis of the entire machine:

The motherboard.

Motherboards (Also known as a mainboard, baseboard, or systemboard) are the base of your entire system, and if your motherboard sucks, chances are no matter what you throw on it, you’re going to have problems. Here is a diagram of how a modern motherboard works:
(Thanks Wikipedia.)


Now, here are some things to think about when choosing a motherboard:
Does the CPU socket on the board match my processor?
An LGA775 motherboard isnt going to help you if your processor doesnt use that socket.


What is my motherboards form factor and what does it mean?
A form factor has to do with the size of your motherboard. MicroATX motherboards are for small, non-overclocked machines. Most medium/full cases only support ATX or Server size motherboards, so make sure whatever case you choose, your motherboard can be put into it.

Do i want onboard video/sound or do i want to get a video card/sound card?
Depending on what you're doing with a computer, you may want to go with the cheaper method of getting onboard video and sound. Or, if you need high performance in areas like video-games or playback, maybe onboard sound and video just isnt for you. Dont pay for what you dont need. (Note: Most current motherboards come with onboard sound anyway.)

Does this motherboard have a high enough FSB (Front Side Bus) and RAM standard for my needs?
The front side bus is just as important as the CPU frequency in most cases, because they are directly related. Over clocking your FSB will increase your processor's frequency, and I dont reccomend over clocking unless you REALLY know what you're doing. (AKA you dont need to be reading this tutorial. ) Make sure that the memory standard on the motherboard matches the RAM you are going to buy and that the mobo and processor both support the same FSB.

How much does a motherboard typically cost?
Typically, a motherboard will run you anywehere from 50-350$. Id say on a budget gaming build (which is what this tutorial has in mind), go with one that is 60-90$.

Reccomended Motherboards*:
Gigabyte P35 DS3L
Abit P35-E
(Waiting for Hawk/Ducky to add more in here.)


*Note, these are motherboards that from their specifications and price appear to me to be pretty good. I make no promise as to the quality of these products nor can you complain to me or would it be my fault if they didnt work how you intended, or if you made it blow into a million pieces. Kthnx.

Now that thats over with, lets move on to the processor.

The processor is what makes the computer tick. Its what does all the real work when it comes to just about anything, and as such, a very very important piece of your build. Choosing a processor is a careful process because you want something that does the job for the right price. Keep these things in mind when choosing a processor:

Do i need multiple cores?
In todays world, processors have anywhere from 1-4 cores. (That number may grow soon.) Depending on how much multi tasking you do, and if your using newer applications that take advantage of multiple cores, you may want to go with a dual or quad core processor.

Is the processor fast enough for my needs?
Obviously, there's a big difference between playing SC and playing WoW, and from WoW to Crysis. If your not going to be doing any high-end gaming, you may want to stick with a low end Allendale or Conroe core processor. However if Crysis is your goal, you may want to go with a high end Conroe, or perhaps a Kentsfield or Yorkfield core. Cores vary not only in speed but in FSB and cache size which is important for very high end gaming.

Recommended Processors*:
E2140 or E2180 (Over clockers or old gaming only. Can be overclocked 70-100% or more with an aftermarket cooler.)
E4500 (Significantly better than the E2140, no overclock required.)
E6750 (Best for price in the upper 6xxxx models if your not an over clocker.)
Q6600 (Cheapest quad core on the market. Overclocks well if given a good aftermarket cooler.)
QX9650 (Only recommended if you have a spare 1k around and nothing to do with it. )

*Note, these are CPUs that from their specifications and price appear to me to be pretty good. I make no promise as to the quality of these products nor can you complain to me or would it be my fault if they didnt work how you intended, or if you made it blow into a million pieces. Kthnx.

We have our processor and we have our motherboard. Lets move on to our PSU, or power supply unit.

The PSU is what the computers power cord plugs into and in turn plugs into everything else to make it run with delicious electricity. (Im speaking from the hardware's point of view. I do not encourage the consumption of electricity nor am I responsible for what happens if you do.)

A word from Wikipedia on PSUs:

Quote from Wikipedia

A power supply unit (PSU) is the component that supplies power to a computer. More specifically, a power supply is typically designed to convert 100-120 V (North America and Japan) or 220-240 V (Europe, Africa, Asia and Australia) AC power from the mains to usable low-voltage DC power for the internal components of the computer. Some power supplies have a switch to change between 230 V and 115 V. Other models have automatic sensors that switch input voltage automatically, or are able to accept any voltage between those limits.

The most common computer power supplies are built to conform with the ATX form factor. The most recent specification of the ATX standard PSU as of mid-2008 is version 2.31. This enables different power supplies to be interchangeable with different components inside the computer. ATX power supplies also are designed to turn on and off using a signal from the motherboard (PS-ON wire, which can be shorted to ground to turn on the PSU outside the computer), and provide support for modern functions such as the standby mode available in many computers.

Lets see what we should consider when choosing our PSU:

How much power do I need?
First of all, you are not a badass because you spent a chunk of change on a 1kw PSU for your P4 and 6600GT. Infact, your going to be paying a lot of money on your electrical bill that is simply because you went overboard. If you have multiple cores in your processor, or if your processor is 65nm as apposed to 45nm, and if you are overclocking, you will need some headroom with your PSU's max output rating. If you are using ATICrossfire or Nvidia's SLI, you will also need quite a bit of power. For most PCs, 300w-500w is a good range, and for SLI/CF or over clocked setups, 500w-900w should be effective. Very few systems ever need 1kw. Seriously.

Is the PSU modular?
Modular power supplies allow the removal of cables you are not using. If your case has a window and you plan on showing the inside off, this is a good thing. Removal of extra cables also leads to less of a chance of getting wires caught in fans. However, this feature usually makes the PSU more expensive, so if you are on a budget, it isnt necessary.

What brand is this PSU?
Like most computer components, this is a factor. Some companies manufacture completely shitty PSUs and this can short out your entire system costing you a lot of money. SeaSonic, Corsair, and Antec are some good brands to consider. If the name seems generic and silly like SuperMan Power Supplies, its probably a cheaply made piece of crap.

Recommended PSUs:
Antec earthwatts EA380 380W ATX12V v2.0
CORSAIR CMPSU-550VX 550W ATX12V V2.2
SeaSonic SS-500ES 500W ATX12V 2.2 / EPS12V 2.91

STILL WORKING KTHNX

Omgosh thank you! I never knew! :P

Omgosh thank you! I never knew!

http://www.cpuid.com/cpuz.php i use that to find out people's processor socket and why is everything intel?

http://www.cpuid.com/cpuz.php
i use that to find out people's processor socket
and why is everything intel?

I already knew about CPU-Z, thanks. Edit: Actually that gave me an idea. Ill add an Upgrading section complete with diagnostic tools.

I already knew about CPU-Z, thanks.

Edit: Actually that gave me an idea. Ill add an Upgrading section complete with diagnostic tools.

I can testify that the DS3L is awesome. E2140 can go pretty high with the stock cooler. Without pushing it as hard as I could, I got an E2160(which has a higher clock speed to begin with) up to 3.0Ghz with +.05 volts. That's 66% overclock, and an 80% overclock on an E2140. I'd also like to point out that your RAM speed doesn't need to match your FSB, it can also go higher, but that won't offer any benefits unless you overclock. Also, you don't neccessarily need a disk drive. Most motherboards support booting from a flash drive.

I can testify that the DS3L is awesome.
E2140 can go pretty high with the stock cooler. Without pushing it as hard as I could, I got an E2160(which has a higher clock speed to begin with) up to 3.0Ghz with +.05 volts. That's 66% overclock, and an 80% overclock on an E2140.
I'd also like to point out that your RAM speed doesn't need to match your FSB, it can also go higher, but that won't offer any benefits unless you overclock.
Also, you don't neccessarily need a disk drive. Most motherboards support booting from a flash drive.

[url=http://www.tekweb.dk/download/utilities/adia32/default.php]Adia32[/url] is more epic than CPU-Z but not maintained (it doesn't know about new processors except by CPUID).

Adia32 is more epic than CPU-Z but not maintained (it doesn't know about new processors except by CPUID).

Everest Home Edition looks better than Adia32, I think. Also, CPU-Z is really nice for just a summary of the CPU, I guess.

Everest Home Edition looks better than Adia32, I think.

Also, CPU-Z is really nice for just a summary of the CPU, I guess.

[quote=name:MasterJohnny]http://www.cpuid.com/cpuz.php i use that to find out people's processor socket and why is everything intel?[/quote] I refuse to offer support for AMD or ATI parts, or Apple computers. Reasons being: 1. Id never reccomend them to anyone. 2. I dont know enough about them to add them in, even if i wanted to. 3. No self respecting budget gamer would touch them. Despite any posts made i stand by those statements, dont waste your breath. Ill be working on this more later tonight.

Quote from O)MasterJohnny

http://www.cpuid.com/cpuz.php
i use that to find out people's processor socket
and why is everything intel?

I refuse to offer support for AMD or ATI parts, or Apple computers.
Reasons being:
1. Id never reccomend them to anyone.
2. I dont know enough about them to add them in, even if i wanted to.
3. No self respecting budget gamer would touch them.

Despite any posts made i stand by those statements, dont waste your breath.

Ill be working on this more later tonight.

E8400 is a nice buy, btw.

E8400 is a nice buy, btw.

[quote=name:Excalibur][quote=name:MasterJohnny]http://www.cpuid.com/cpuz.php i use that to find out people's processor socket and why is everything intel?[/quote] I refuse to offer support for AMD or ATI parts, or Apple computers. Reasons being: 1. Id never reccomend them to anyone. 2. I dont know enough about them to add them in, even if i wanted to. 3. No self respecting budget gamer would touch them. Despite any posts made i stand by those statements, dont waste your breath. Ill be working on this more later tonight.[/quote] 1. Even if they were superior? 2. Valid point 3. Hawk has AMD.

Quote from Excalibur[MM]

Quote from O)MasterJohnny

http://www.cpuid.com/cpuz.php
i use that to find out people's processor socket
and why is everything intel?

I refuse to offer support for AMD or ATI parts, or Apple computers.
Reasons being:
1. Id never reccomend them to anyone.
2. I dont know enough about them to add them in, even if i wanted to.
3. No self respecting budget gamer would touch them.

Despite any posts made i stand by those statements, dont waste your breath.

Ill be working on this more later tonight.

1. Even if they were superior?
2. Valid point
3. Hawk has AMD.

[quote=name:Excalibur][quote=name:MasterJohnny]http://www.cpuid.com/cpuz.php i use that to find out people's processor socket and why is everything intel?[/quote] I refuse to offer support for AMD or ATI parts, or Apple computers. Reasons being: 1. Id never reccomend them to anyone. 2. I dont know enough about them to add them in, even if i wanted to. 3. No self respecting budget gamer would touch them. Despite any posts made i stand by those statements, dont waste your breath. Ill be working on this more later tonight.[/quote] 1.) Why not? 3.) Sure they would. At one point, not too long ago, Intel had nothing to compete with AMD as far as cheap dual core processors went. And before the 8800GS and 9600GT, the best performance you could get around the 160~ range was an AMD card, and it ran circles around nVidia's closest offering, the 8600GTS.

Quote from Excalibur[MM]

Quote from O)MasterJohnny

http://www.cpuid.com/cpuz.php
i use that to find out people's processor socket
and why is everything intel?

I refuse to offer support for AMD or ATI parts, or Apple computers.
Reasons being:
1. Id never reccomend them to anyone.
2. I dont know enough about them to add them in, even if i wanted to.
3. No self respecting budget gamer would touch them.

Despite any posts made i stand by those statements, dont waste your breath.

Ill be working on this more later tonight.

1.) Why not?

3.) Sure they would. At one point, not too long ago, Intel had nothing to compete with AMD as far as cheap dual core processors went. And before the 8800GS and 9600GT, the best performance you could get around the 160~ range was an AMD card, and it ran circles around nVidia's closest offering, the 8600GTS.

What about dont waste your breath do you not understand?

What about dont waste your breath do you not understand?

Yay Intel and Nvidia! Boo AMD and ATI! Nice guide btw but ur missing some stuff :P [size=6](i demand a video card section!)[/size]

Yay Intel and Nvidia!
Boo AMD and ATI!

Nice guide btw but ur missing some stuff
(i demand a video card section!)

It's REALLY still under construction. Oh, and I use AMD. It's not that bad. Not an expensive computer, but with a few upgrades I expect this baby can run SCII flawlessly. It can run WoW fine. Excalibur, Deathawk is the original SEN Hardware-Guy. Don't mess with him :P.

It's REALLY still under construction. Oh, and I use AMD. It's not that bad. Not an expensive computer, but with a few upgrades I expect this baby can run SCII flawlessly. It can run WoW fine.

Excalibur, Deathawk is the original SEN Hardware-Guy. Don't mess with him .

I dont like messing with him, but this is my topic. :P I actually go to him for hardware advice all the time.

I dont like messing with him, but this is my topic.

I actually go to him for hardware advice all the time.

Don't we all? :P

Don't we all?

[quote=name:~:Deathawk:~]At one point, not too long ago, Intel had nothing to compete with AMD as far as cheap dual core processors went.[/quote] That is exactly why I have an AMD processor in my current system. Also when I was shopping for a motherboard, the motherboards having the specs I wanted were much more expensive for ones supporting an Intel cpu, compared with AMD. I would have had to spend on the order of around $200+ to get a motherboard for an Intel cpu that had the features I wanted.

Quote from ~:Deathawk:~

At one point, not too long ago, Intel had nothing to compete with AMD as far as cheap dual core processors went.

That is exactly why I have an AMD processor in my current system. Also when I was shopping for a motherboard, the motherboards having the specs I wanted were much more expensive for ones supporting an Intel cpu, compared with AMD. I would have had to spend on the order of around $200+ to get a motherboard for an Intel cpu that had the features I wanted.

[quote=name:Centreri]Oh, and I use AMD. It's not that bad. Not an expensive computer, but with a few upgrades I expect this baby can run SCII flawlessly. It can run WoW fine. [/quote] If you havent noticed, WoW doesnt really have high requirements.. Min: Windows 2000, Windows Vista or Windows XP Intel Pentium III or AMD Athlon 800 MHz 512 MB or more of RAM 32 MB 3D video card with Hardware T&L or better 6.0 GB free HD space 4× CD-ROM drive 56 kbit/s or faster Internet connection Recommended: Windows 2000/XP Pentium 4 or Athlon XP 2 GHz CPU speed 1 GB of RAM 64MB VRAM 3D graphics processor with Vertex and Pixel Shader capability, such as an NVIDIA GeForce FX 5700 class card or above.

Quote from Centreri

Oh, and I use AMD. It's not that bad. Not an expensive computer, but with a few upgrades I expect this baby can run SCII flawlessly. It can run WoW fine.

If you havent noticed, WoW doesnt really have high requirements..
Min:

Windows 2000, Windows Vista or Windows XP
Intel Pentium III or AMD Athlon 800 MHz
512 MB or more of RAM
32 MB 3D video card with Hardware T&L or better
6.0 GB free HD space
4× CD-ROM drive
56 kbit/s or faster Internet connection

Recommended:
Windows 2000/XP
Pentium 4 or Athlon XP
2 GHz CPU speed
1 GB of RAM
64MB VRAM 3D graphics processor with Vertex and Pixel Shader capability, such as an NVIDIA GeForce FX 5700 class card or above.

So, If you want a really good computer for, lets say...playing games. What would be the best things to get for it? Like, for graphics, sound, etc.?

So, If you want a really good computer for, lets say...playing games. What would be the best things to get for it? Like, for graphics, sound, etc.?

[quote]If you havent noticed, WoW doesnt really have high requirements.. Min: Windows 2000, Windows Vista or Windows XP Intel Pentium III or AMD Athlon 800 MHz 512 MB or more of RAM 32 MB 3D video card with Hardware T&L or better 6.0 GB free HD space 4× CD-ROM drive 56 kbit/s or faster Internet connection Recommended: Windows 2000/XP Pentium 4 or Athlon XP 2 GHz CPU speed 1 GB of RAM 64MB VRAM 3D graphics processor with Vertex and Pixel Shader capability, such as an NVIDIA GeForce FX 5700 class card or above.[/quote] Maybe not, but it's a decent 3D game. I'm pretty sure an equivalent Intel processor won't do much better. [quote]So, If you want a really good computer for, lets say...playing games. What would be the best things to get for it? Like, for graphics, sound, etc.?[/quote] I'll predict Deathawk's reply: What's your budget?

Quote

If you havent noticed, WoW doesnt really have high requirements..
Min:

Windows 2000, Windows Vista or Windows XP
Intel Pentium III or AMD Athlon 800 MHz
512 MB or more of RAM
32 MB 3D video card with Hardware T&L or better
6.0 GB free HD space
4× CD-ROM drive
56 kbit/s or faster Internet connection

Recommended:
Windows 2000/XP
Pentium 4 or Athlon XP
2 GHz CPU speed
1 GB of RAM
64MB VRAM 3D graphics processor with Vertex and Pixel Shader capability, such as an NVIDIA GeForce FX 5700 class card or above.

Maybe not, but it's a decent 3D game. I'm pretty sure an equivalent Intel processor won't do much better.

Quote

So, If you want a really good computer for, lets say...playing games. What would be the best things to get for it? Like, for graphics, sound, etc.?

I'll predict Deathawk's reply: What's your budget?